The first thing necessary for a successful permanent wave
is good hair.
A. ANALYSIS OF CLIENT'S HAIR - Determine the
condition of the client's hair. - Determine whether an
Alkaline or Acid Wave should be used. - Explain hair's
condition and perm selection to client.
ALKALINE WAVE: The best choice for resistant hair,
resistant grey hair, Asian hair, hair with low
elasticity, and hard to perm fine hair as well as normal,
ACID WAVE: These are milder than alkaline perms and work
at a lower pH to reduce swelling of the hair during the
perm process thus-reducing the chance of damage to
fragile and color treated hair. A good choice for healthy
hair with good elasticity, tinted hair, damaged hair,
highlighted hair, or fragile hair.
B. HAIR PREPARATION: THE ULTIMATE TREATMENT
-Shampoo with Lanza?Curls & Color Purifying
Shampoo to remove any build-up that may exist. Repeat if
build-up is still present. -Spray hair with Lanza?
Curls & Color Keratin Booster and leave on hair.
-Apply Lanza?Curls & Color Reconstructor.
Leave on hair 3-5 minutes and rinse. -Recheck hair's
condition. If there's any question about the hair's
ability to take a perm, do a test curl at this point.
C. ROD SELECTION Avoid use of spiral and concave
rods when perming. Spiral wrapped hair creates a looser
curl than a croquinole wrap. Concave rods make it
impossible to wrap the hair without peaking the ends
(which will produce a tight curl on the ends and a loose
curl at the scalp).
For the most natural wave pattern, a straight or
cylindrical type rod should be used. A straight or
cylindrical rod can be wrapped with the hair strands the
same width from the scalp to the ends. This allows the
wrap to be executed in a true croquinole technique and
helps avoid all spiraling of the hair. It also prevents
bunching of the hair which distorts the wave pattern.
D. OFF-BASE ROD PLACEMENT Off-base rod placement
is the most effective way to perm. Hair wrapped on-base
often ends-up with rod marks, breakage and incongruent
To off-base wrap, a section is combed and held at a 45
degree angle off the head form. When wound, it will tend
to sit in front of its own base (The trick is to make
sure no portion of the rod is sitting on its own base).
The pressure from the rods above will insure that hair is
curled very close to the scalp. It also guarantees that
congruent wave patterns are formed and no rod marks are
created. By running the tail of a comb under the lower
edge of the last rod wrapped in a section, the correct
size section is easily made.
E. THE PROPER USE OF END PAPERS Your off-base wrap
should begin by sandwiching the hair between two end
papers. This technique allows the hair to be held at the
same width from scalp to ends.
End papers may also be inserted as the hair is wrapped to
the scalp. This is called cushion wrapping. Cushion
wrapping is a great method to protect fragile hair. It
keeps hair from crossing into itself as it is wrapped. It
allows hair to swell and enables the solution to
penetrate quickly to the ends of the hair.
F. PROCESSING AND REDUCING The action of a perm
comes from changing cystine bond to cysteine, which is
the effect of reducing the cystine bond. This process
allows the polypeptide chains to slip along side of each
other to conform to the circle (curl) produced when the
hair is wrapped around the rod.
G. TYPES OF PERMS The most common reducing agents
are: . Ammonium Thioglycolate (alkaline wave) pH 9.0-10.
. Glycerylmonothiogrlycolate (acid wave) pH 6.5-8.2. .
Ammonium Thioglycolate and Hydrogen Peroxide (exothermic
wave) pH 8.4-9.0.
TIP: When perming tinted, highlighted or fragile hair add
1/4-oz. of Lanza?Curls & Color Keratin
Booster into 4-ozs. of reducing solution This will
strengthen the hair and the curl formation while you
H. REDUCTION OF THE CYSTINE BOND
AMMONIUM THIODIGLYCOLATE MOLECULE: Two hydrogen atoms are
released by two thiodiglycolate molecules which combine
with the sulfur atoms that form the cystine
bondthus creating cysteine.
AMMONIUM DITHIODIGLYCOLATE MOLECULE: The formation of
cysteine and the changing of the two thioglycolate
molecules into dithiodiglycolate now takes place. At this
point, the dithiodiglycolate will readily accept the
return of the hydrogen it released. But, if there is an
excess of thiodiglycolate present the cystine bond will
remain broken and allow the polypeptide chains to slip
along side one another in response to the pressure placed
on them by wrapping them around a perm rod.
1. STOPPING THE REDUCING PROCESS There must be an excess
amount of thiodiglycolate on the hair for it to process.
Therefore, all that is needed to stop the reducing action
is to rinse the rods with water. With an acid wave it is
very important to rinse well as the solution is not
compatible with the neutralizer. If the neutralizer is
applied on top of the lotion the rods will become hot.
J. NEUTRALIZING (Oxidizing) Neutralizing solution
contains the oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide or sodium
bromate. The oxidizing agent releases oxygen in the hair.
This combines with the hydrogen of the cysteine to form
water, as well as a new cystine bond.
TIP: Place a 1/4-oz. of Lanza?Curls & Color
Keratin Booster into your neutralizer. This will provide
additional strength to the hair and aid in the
reformation of the cystine bonds.
K. OXIDATION PROCESS
ATMOSPHERIC OXIDATION: Allowing the oxygen in the
atmosphere to neutralize the perm and reform the cystine
bonds is important. This process reforms the cystine more
slowly and completely because the hair is allowed to
shrink and the cystine bonds are brought back together
naturally. It also eliminates the fear of over oxidation.
To be effective, hair must dry naturally and slowly on
the rods for 24 hours. (Not under the dryer or out in the
L. LOCKING-IN RESULTS Once Neutralizer (oxidizer)
is rinsed from hair, complete steps 4 and 5 of the
Ultimate Treatment. Spray Curls & Color Chemical
Balancer on to the hair (Ultimate Treatment Step 4). This
may be done on or off the rods. Chemical Balancer will
slam the cuticle layer shut to lock-in the perm and help
eliminate perm odors. Leave on hair for 3-5 minutes and
rinse. Towel blot hair and apply a pearl-size amount of
Curls & Color Leave-In Protector to hair (Step 5).
Leave-In Protector will detangle, condition and protect
hair from heat-styling, sun exposure and other