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Hair Permanent Wave

Perming Techniques

The first thing necessary for a successful permanent wave is good hair.


A. ANALYSIS OF CLIENT'S HAIR - Determine the condition of the client's hair. - Determine whether an Alkaline or Acid Wave should be used. - Explain hair's condition and perm selection to client.

ALKALINE WAVE: The best choice for resistant hair, resistant grey hair, Asian hair, hair with low elasticity, and hard to perm fine hair as well as normal, healthy hair.

ACID WAVE: These are milder than alkaline perms and work at a lower pH to reduce swelling of the hair during the perm process thus-reducing the chance of damage to fragile and color treated hair. A good choice for healthy hair with good elasticity, tinted hair, damaged hair, highlighted hair, or fragile hair.

B. HAIR PREPARATION: THE ULTIMATE TREATMENT -Shampoo with L’anza?Curls & Color Purifying Shampoo to remove any build-up that may exist. Repeat if build-up is still present. -Spray hair with L’anza? Curls & Color Keratin Booster and leave on hair. -Apply L’anza?Curls & Color Reconstructor. Leave on hair 3-5 minutes and rinse. -Recheck hair's condition. If there's any question about the hair's ability to take a perm, do a test curl at this point.

C. ROD SELECTION Avoid use of spiral and concave rods when perming. Spiral wrapped hair creates a looser curl than a croquinole wrap. Concave rods make it impossible to wrap the hair without peaking the ends (which will produce a tight curl on the ends and a loose curl at the scalp).

For the most natural wave pattern, a straight or cylindrical type rod should be used. A straight or cylindrical rod can be wrapped with the hair strands the same width from the scalp to the ends. This allows the wrap to be executed in a true croquinole technique and helps avoid all spiraling of the hair. It also prevents bunching of the hair which distorts the wave pattern.

D. OFF-BASE ROD PLACEMENT Off-base rod placement is the most effective way to perm. Hair wrapped on-base often ends-up with rod marks, breakage and incongruent wave patterns.

To off-base wrap, a section is combed and held at a 45 degree angle off the head form. When wound, it will tend to sit in front of its own base (The trick is to make sure no portion of the rod is sitting on its own base). The pressure from the rods above will insure that hair is curled very close to the scalp. It also guarantees that congruent wave patterns are formed and no rod marks are created. By running the tail of a comb under the lower edge of the last rod wrapped in a section, the correct size section is easily made.

E. THE PROPER USE OF END PAPERS Your off-base wrap should begin by sandwiching the hair between two end papers. This technique allows the hair to be held at the same width from scalp to ends.

End papers may also be inserted as the hair is wrapped to the scalp. This is called cushion wrapping. Cushion wrapping is a great method to protect fragile hair. It keeps hair from crossing into itself as it is wrapped. It allows hair to swell and enables the solution to penetrate quickly to the ends of the hair.

F. PROCESSING AND REDUCING The action of a perm comes from changing cystine bond to cysteine, which is the effect of reducing the cystine bond. This process allows the polypeptide chains to slip along side of each other to conform to the circle (curl) produced when the hair is wrapped around the rod.

G. TYPES OF PERMS The most common reducing agents are: . Ammonium Thioglycolate (alkaline wave) pH 9.0-10. . Glycerylmonothiogrlycolate (acid wave) pH 6.5-8.2. . Ammonium Thioglycolate and Hydrogen Peroxide (exothermic wave) pH 8.4-9.0.

TIP: When perming tinted, highlighted or fragile hair add 1/4-oz. of L’anza?Curls & Color Keratin Booster into 4-ozs. of reducing solution This will strengthen the hair and the curl formation while you perm.


AMMONIUM THIODIGLYCOLATE MOLECULE: Two hydrogen atoms are released by two thiodiglycolate molecules which combine with the sulfur atoms that form the cystine bond—thus creating cysteine.

AMMONIUM DITHIODIGLYCOLATE MOLECULE: The formation of cysteine and the changing of the two thioglycolate molecules into dithiodiglycolate now takes place. At this point, the dithiodiglycolate will readily accept the return of the hydrogen it released. But, if there is an excess of thiodiglycolate present the cystine bond will remain broken and allow the polypeptide chains to slip along side one another in response to the pressure placed on them by wrapping them around a perm rod.

1. STOPPING THE REDUCING PROCESS There must be an excess amount of thiodiglycolate on the hair for it to process. Therefore, all that is needed to stop the reducing action is to rinse the rods with water. With an acid wave it is very important to rinse well as the solution is not compatible with the neutralizer. If the neutralizer is applied on top of the lotion the rods will become hot.

J. NEUTRALIZING (Oxidizing) Neutralizing solution contains the oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate. The oxidizing agent releases oxygen in the hair. This combines with the hydrogen of the cysteine to form water, as well as a new cystine bond.

TIP: Place a 1/4-oz. of L’anza?Curls & Color Keratin Booster into your neutralizer. This will provide additional strength to the hair and aid in the reformation of the cystine bonds.


ATMOSPHERIC OXIDATION: Allowing the oxygen in the atmosphere to neutralize the perm and reform the cystine bonds is important. This process reforms the cystine more slowly and completely because the hair is allowed to shrink and the cystine bonds are brought back together naturally. It also eliminates the fear of over oxidation. To be effective, hair must dry naturally and slowly on the rods for 24 hours. (Not under the dryer or out in the sun).

L. LOCKING-IN RESULTS Once Neutralizer (oxidizer) is rinsed from hair, complete steps 4 and 5 of the Ultimate Treatment. Spray Curls & Color Chemical Balancer on to the hair (Ultimate Treatment Step 4). This may be done on or off the rods. Chemical Balancer will slam the cuticle layer shut to lock-in the perm and help eliminate perm odors. Leave on hair for 3-5 minutes and rinse. Towel blot hair and apply a pearl-size amount of Curls & Color Leave-In Protector to hair (Step 5). Leave-In Protector will detangle, condition and protect hair from heat-styling, sun exposure and other environmental damage.

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